Brother-and-sister team Paul and Aileen Reilly’s Italian eatery serves up knockout dishes culled from little-known regions and towns in Italy, with an enticing bar program built on Italian spirits and warm hospitality. Begin with spuzzulia, a smattering of small plates that change with the seasons, end with a scoop of olive oil gelato, and relax knowing that you can’t go wrong no matter what you order in between (though we always drool over longtime menu standouts like cavatelli with lamb and beef ragù and fiery Calabrian chile-spiked pollo alla diavola, which are comforting in all the right ways). ($$$)