Citizen Rail has proved that inventive, chef-driven fare can work in a hotel setting— in this case, the Kimpton Hotel Born near Union Station. The kitchen focuses on artisan food production, with dry-aged steaks (some aged for up to a year) and handmade bread and pasta. The heart of the restaurant is an open kitchen with several wood-burning grills, where everything — from those flavor-packed steaks to cocktail garnishes — is kissed with flame and smoke.