Mateo’s regulars include men in suits and women in sparkling tops twisting stemware between manicured fingers, transplants from the coasts who have an appreciation for the Colorado lifestyle. This restaurant right on the bustling Pearl Street Mall in Boulder serves French bar fare that includes decadently creamy macaroni and cheese gratin, a croque-monsieur, and a monstrous plateau provençal of cured meats, cheeses, olives and nuts. But while the accent may be French, the emphasis here is definitely on local — local produce as well as local diners who use Mateo as a neighborhood hangout. During the summer, the secluded patio is a perfect place to share snacks and sparkling wine; in the winter, pull up to the marble bar inside for big bowls of mussels.