Any joint that sells poutine is a winner in our book — and Au Feu, the Zeppelin Station stall specializing in Quebecois cuisine, makes a mean one, topped with veal demi-glace and smoked brisket. But this brisket isn't what most Americans expect when they think of barbecue: Instead of falling-apart beef seasoned with plenty of smoke and just a hint of salt, Montreal-style brisket is more akin to pastrami. The firmer, saltier version made with Wagyu beef adds a certain je ne sais quoi to the gravy fries, but is also superlative in Au Feu's flagship dish: a sandwich served on rye with sharp stone-ground mustard and housemade pickles. Anyone who says good brisket isn't served north of the Mason-Dixon line hasn't tried this.
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