Call

2845 Larimer St.
Denver, CO 80205
303-954-0230
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Call +

Danielle Lirette

Call is a sleek, next-gen cafe with plenty of flair and attitude. Walls are white with a few orange accents, and cans hang from the ceiling above a narrow counter, replicas of the tin-can phones kids once used to “talk” with their friends. A neon sign in the bathroom, hung over wallpaper that looks like pages from a phone book, glows suggestively: “For a good time.” Jokes aside, the food is no laughing matter, even if it’s deceptively simple. A daytime menu of soups, sandwiches and salads runs through breakfast and lunch. Early risers will love the fried-egg sandwich with such thoughtful accents as finely chopped, housemade giardiniera and house-cured meats on brioche, and aebleskiver, barely-sweet pancake balls — akin to Scandinavian doughnut holes — with house ricotta and jam. Tartines are bestsellers for a reason; don’t miss the smoked fish (maybe whiting, maybe mackerel) on curried, caramelized onions. At night, a host of specials expands the tiny menu, so you can build your own platter and pair it with a carefully curated cocktail. Whatever time you visit, you’ll want to pick up a sweet treat from the gorgeous display on the counter.

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