Call is a sleek, next-gen cafe with plenty of flair and attitude, enough to earn it a place on Bon Appétit's list of the ten best new restaurants of 2018. Anachronous telephone references fill the tiny space: Replicas of the tin-can phones kids once used to talk with their friends serve as light fixtures, and a neon sign in the bathroom, hung over wallpaper that looks like pages from a phone book, glows suggestively: “For a good time.” The food, though, is no laughing matter, even if it’s deceptively simple. Early risers will love the fried-egg sandwich with such thoughtful accents as finely chopped, housemade giardiniera and house-cured meats on brioche, and aebleskiver, barely sweet pancake balls — akin to Scandinavian doughnut holes — with ricotta and jam. At lunch, check the daily specials that expand the concise regular menu. Call has a liquor license too, so look for happy hour specials from noon to 2 p.m. daily.