FNG, a rock-and-roll-themed hit from prolific chef/restaurateur Troy Guard, more than lives up to its name: It’s fuckin’ good. Located in Highland, it’s a neighborly place with nothing to prove — except maybe that comfort food from a restaurant can be just as good as homemade. The vibe is youthful and raucous, slightly diner-like on the perimeter, where garage-door windows flood a family-friendly section of booths with fresh air and sunlight. The inner dining room, bordered by the bar and kitchen, is darker and more atmospheric, a cross between the Brady Bunch living room and a lounge. Vintage album covers hang on the walls, many from Guard’s teenage collection. Servers sport band T-shirts, and ’70s and ’80s rock and heavy metal is cranked at all times, sometimes so loudly that you’ll shout or give up trying. The noise level makes it easy to bring kids, as do toy-filled lunchboxes and a pinball machine to ease the wait for food. The menu straddles the line between nostalgic and contemporary, with a mix of small plates, sandwiches, housemade pasta and down-home favorites like meatloaf and chicken-fried steak. For dessert, have fun digging in the Dirt & Worms, that Oreo-topped chocolate-pudding dessert you loved in grade school.

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