As anyone who's gone out for breakfast recently knows, Denverites love their morning meal: Hours-long waits at joints that serve up a mean pancake aren't uncommon. Sassafras hitched up its wagon and headed west to Golden in 2017, after the success of its Denver locations caused its long lines to just get longer. Not one to mess with a good thing, owner Julia Grother kept the same menu at the breakfast-and-lunch spot, emphasizing classic Southern comfort foods like grits (from pimiento cheese grits to scallion grits with fried oysters and smoked bacon); a few varieties of mac and cheese (who can resist breakfast mac?); gumbo, which gets its deep, earthy kick from filé powder; and fried green tomatoes, which are featured in a Benedict and as the stuffing of a sandwich. And then there are the biscuits, so light and flaky it's almost a shame to cover them up with the delicious sausage gravy.
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