The Preservery

Perhaps no other restaurant captures the direction of Denver’s food scene as much as the Preservery, the brainchild of wife-husband duo Whitney and Obe Ariss. To wit: The Preservery is in RiNo, the turbo-thrusted neighborhood that’s the envy of many a city planner. Gratuity is built into the pricing, in line with the owners’ socially minded outlook. Live music happens on a regular basis, including classical piano from Obe himself. The Arisses are clearly the heart and soul of the place. But it is the kitchen that translates their vision and lifts the Preservery out of the realm of the super-trendy and into the much narrower category of places you’ll want to return to even after you’ve checked them off your list. The seasonally inspired menu is full of choice – think octopus to vegan salads to wagyu – but salads and desserts are particularly strong. You might find fried green tomatoes plated off-center in a white bowl and dotted with aged balsamic and green purée cleverly made with nasturtium leaves, cucumbers and agar. We especially love the stunning ricotta cheesecake, hauntingly unsweet thanks to preserved lemon, candied pistachios and a caramelized top that crackles like crème brûlée. This is cooking for right now, in this adventurous, booming heart of the New West.