Trillium

Ryan Leinonen worked the burners in several restaurants in Boulder and Denver, and when he decided to strike out on his own, he drew knowledge from his experience and inspiration from a trip to Scandinavia and his own roots to create Trillium, a sleek, Scandinavian-American hot spot that opened in late 2011 in the Ballpark neighborhood. Leinonen is drawn to strong flavors, and Scandinavian cuisine, with its preponderance of roe and assertive fishes, is certainly full of them – but the most successful dishes here showcase his skills in coaxing maximum flavor from simple ingredients. The chicken breast topped with Norwegian goat cheese is a standout; so is the New York strip, a contender for the best steak in town. But other dishes are not as well balanced, and the service in the dining room can be spotty. Leinonen says his place is named for a rare blue wildflower that only blooms when conditions are right; if he can achieve the same balance in the overall Trilllium experience -- superb food, fun decor and gracious service -- that he does with his most successful plates, then this restaurant might truly flower.