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A Call to Arms

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Excess—that's what I love about the Palace Arms. And not just plain excess. Not cheap, tawdry, modern excess but classy, well-aged and dignified excess. The kind of excess that almost demands you don an ascot and monocle before partaking. And yet, there is no credit check at the door, no top-hat-and-tails requirement, no sign: YOU MUST BE THIS RICH TO RIDE THIS RIDE...

Which is, more or less, the only reason I was let through the door for this week's review of the Palace Arms at the Brown Palace. Seriously, who would have thought a guy like me would ever be let in a place where some of the appetizers sell for $500 -- an ounce? And forget just being let in: Who would have thought I'd end up having a favorite table?

Anyway, that's what's in store in this week's Cafe review, along with my restaurant critic's letter to Santa. On tap this year? Christmas wishes for everyone -- including Bobby Flay, PETA, the state legislature, Continuum East/West and, of course, me. -- Jason Sheehan

Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.

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Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.

 

Join the Westword community and help support independent local journalism in Denver.