Both spots were serving the same purpose, separated by two dozen years and a million miles of desire. That old grocery store was dedicated to its community of farmers, drunks, rednecks and fishermen, just as Fisher Clark tends to the needs of the yuppies, old folks, new money and urban/suburban neighbors who call Bonnie Brae home. In one store, there were sixers of Genny Cream Ale, Rocket Pops, explosives and Retarded Moose-brand oatmeal. In the other, Picholine olives, cans of sardines, a dozen kinds of olive oil and beautiful tins of Spanish saffron. In one, you could get a pack of bright pink boloney for 99 cents. In the other, an Italian muffuletta sandwich of artisan salami, capicola, powerful oil, wonderfully strong provolone and an amazing, rough-chopped and savory tapenade of mixed olives squashed inside a roll stiff and chewy enough to hold it all together, for $7.95.
Two very different places, one from my memory, one from Denver’s Bonnie Brae neighborhood, are on review in Cafe this week. The first had no name that I can recall. The second is Fisher Clark Urban Delicatessen, the latest project of Mary Clark (of Bluepoint fame) and Adam Fisher, ex of Panzano, and just about the perfect neighborhood grocery and sandwich shop.
In Bite Me, I talk a bit with Clark about her crew at Fisher Clark and their multitudinous talents, and also offer an update on Eric Laslow and some of the restaurants where he put his tragic mark before fleeing Colorado for the sands of New Mexico.
More important, though, is what’s on tap for next week, which is when the Best of Denver 2008 hits the stands. In the restaurant section alone, there are awards in almost 200 categories. It's the best, most complete, most comprehensive guide to eating out in the city of Denver that I can possibly offer
Until I grow a second stomach, that is. -- Jason Sheehan.
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