New York State of Mind

I know, I know... this is twice in one week that I'm making fun of the New York Times (see "$115,000 Worth of Pointless Revenge" a few blogs below for my first shot at the Old Gray Lady), but I just couldn't let this one go without a comment.

In the February 25 Travel section, writer Michelle Auerbach gave a nice shout-out to Boulder, touching on the alleged sudden profusion of fine, earth-friendly restaurants popping up in the People's Republic. Mateo, Frasca (chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson shown above), The Kitchen -- it was all the usual suspects, and that didn't bother me at all. What did bug me was Auerbach's contention that the Denver/Boulder area has only recently become worthy of notice and that this is all thanks to the relocation of people from New York and California to our fair state -- as if it is only the refined palates and deep pockets of the Coasties that could've possibly elevated the level of cuisine in our benighted culinary backwater and saved us poor testicle-eating, taco-loving, twig-and-berry-chewing hippie savages from our own baser desires.

"Boulder, Colorado used to be a tough place to eat good food," Auerbach wrote. "For all its outdoorsy charm, health-conscious Boulderites had to settle for restaurants that served mush like overcooked lentils and brown rice. The food may have been healthy, but it was also monochromatic and unappetizing...But thanks partly to a recent influx of urbanites, especially from New York and California, several high-end restaurants have opened in Boulder."

You know what? Fuck off. I am so sick of hearing this kind of crap from New Yorkers -- that their city is beyond argument as the arbiter of all things food-related and that it is only with their disdainful notice that any other city might appear on the radar. Boulder only became good after New Yorkers started moving there? I'd be willing to wager that a whole generation of Boulder chefs who came up through the '80s and '90s would have a little something to say about that.

Actually, they probably wouldn't have to say much of anything. I think one finger would suffice. -- Jason Sheehan

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Patricia Calhoun co-founded Westword in 1977; she’s been the editor ever since. She’s a regular on the weekly CPT12 roundtable Colorado Inside Out, played a real journalist in John Sayles’s Silver City, once interviewed President Bill Clinton while wearing flip-flops, and has been honored with numerous national awards for her columns and feature-writing.
Contact: Patricia Calhoun