Olivea

Chef John Broening scores again with another beautiful little neighborhood place in another neighborhood badly in need of just his kind of cuisine. Here it's Spanish/Italian/Mediterranean food with a little bit of French thrown in for good measure -- a restaurant that does small plates with huge flavors and big plates with a restraint and artistry that typifies Broening's command and balance in the kitchen. The room is small, so reservations aren't a bad idea, but everything about Olivea, from the menu to the service to the bar, is excellent, and a welcome addition to the 17th Avenue neighborhood.