Thai Time

Fusion is the devil's cuisine. I've been saying that for a long time. And I've believed it ever since those dark days of my own forays into the seductive world of galangal, lemongrass and frisee. A chef has to be an absolute genius to make any sort of fusion work...

By Patricia Calhoun

February 13, 2007

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Fusion is the devil's cuisine. I've been saying that for a long time. And I've believed it ever since those dark days of my own forays into the seductive world of galangal, lemongrass and frisee.

A chef has to be an absolute genius to make any sort of fusion work -- and genius is one of the many things I've never been. But this week, I'm taking a look at the opposite side of fusion -- a pure expression of one of the cuisines so often abused by the industry's fusers, deconstructionists and world-food enthusiasts.

I've got Thai food on tap this week, at US Thai in Edgewater. And this is one you're not going to want to miss. Look for the full review on this web site tomorrow afternoon, or in the February 15 issue. -- Jason Sheehan

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Patricia Calhoun is editor-in-chief of Westword, the alt-weekly she co-founded in September 1977. She’s been inducted into the Colorado Press Association Hall of Fame, the Association of Alternative Newsmedia Hall of Fame and the Colorado Restaurant Association Hall of Fame. She’s also received dozens of local, state and national awards for writing, including first place for feature writing and first place for column writing with the Society of Professional Journalists. Patricia is a weekly commentator on Colorado Inside Out, PBS 12's public affairs roundtable, which has won two Emmys.

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