A few existing establishments helped usher in the current wave, though, and one of them is Barolo Grill.
I recently returned to the almost-two-decade-old spot that's still reverently used as a measuring stick by many restaurateurs and dinner-goers, wining and dining, Barolo-style, through coursed meals and Italian pairings steeped in the region of Piedmont, from which the restaurant takes inspiration.
It's as difficult as it ever was to walk in and find a table on a busy night, and average check prices reach the same levels of the finest dining spots in town. To find out whether Barolo still shines as brightly as the gleaming new eateries, read tomorrow's review, which will be posted here along with a slide show.