Chile today, hot tamale: I brake for Tamales Moreno

As I've eaten my way through restaurants, taquerias and parking lots where ladies open their coolers, I've been frequently burned in my search for the perfect corn-husk package...

By Laura Shunk

August 30, 2011

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As I've eaten my way through restaurants, taquerias and parking lots where ladies open their coolers, I've been frequently burned in my search for the perfect corn-husk package.

The sheer number of tamales vying for attention in this town, and as I attempted to maneuver my way through the good ones to find the great, I eventually made a stop at Tamales Moreno, a place I very likely would have skipped altogether had I not known what I was looking for.

There, though, along with a menu of burrritos, tacos and green chile, I found tamales stuffed with pork and chicken, green chile and red chile, and sold by the half dozen and dozen.

Find out how they were -- and why this place is frequently overlooked -- tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

Contact: Laura Shunk

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