But the food is all Wiard. Since taking over this galley several months ago, he's showed admirable restraint in his fixes. He's added a little more seafood to the mix, some appetizers that are both simple (a crab cocktail presented as snowy-white shelled meat over cocktail sauce over shredded lettuce in a bowl -- luxury unaffected) and smart (a lobster cocktail mounted like the shrimp -- over smoking dry ice -- but with whole tails hooked over the rim of the glass, presenting an unparalleled vision of excess). The steaks are the same high quality, but Wiard gives them a super-hot sear that adds a nice, salty crust to the outside of even the rarest hunk of beef and an ethereally caramelized flavor to that first bite.
A meal here isn't cheap, but it's worth the price. You can eat an excellent burger, drink water instead of champagne and get out the door for under thirty bucks -- but you wouldn't be doing justice to yourself or to Elway's. When you come here, you want to go all out: eat too much and drink too much and enjoy the full board. Life's too short for anything else.
