Reader: Central Bistro is hot, but its HOT sign is not

Gretchen Kurtz reviewed Central Bistro & Bar this week, and although she loved many of chef Lance Barto's dishes, she didn't like the giant HOT sign that dominates the decor. Even though it comes with a tasty back story -- the six-foot-high letters used to be part of the sign...

By Patricia Calhoun

December 13, 2012

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Gretchen Kurtz reviewed Central Bistro & Bar this week, and although she loved many of chef Lance Barto's dishes, she didn't like the giant HOT sign that dominates the decor. Even though it comes with a tasty back story -- the six-foot-high letters used to be part of the sign on the defunct Regency Hotel, once owned by the family of Isiah Salazar, owner-managing partner of Central -- that's not enough to make the distracting glare palatable, she says.

Still, Central is definitely one of the best restaurants to open in Denver this year. See also: - Hot damn! Central Bistro & Bar redefines what a neighborhood restaurant can be - Photos: A closer look at Central Bistro & Bar - What defines a neighborhood restaurant in Denver these days?

And Denver Dave agrees:

I, too, find the HOT sign a distraction. It pretty much overtakes (not it a good way) an otherwise lovely restaurant. It will not deter me from returning, though. We've been twice and the food has been sublime on both occasions. Had the same very warm and helpful young woman server on both occasions and she remembered us and what we had eaten on our first visit and recommended different food and wine selections for a new experience. Quickly becoming a favorite!

Have you seen the HOT sign at Central? What distracting decor items have you spotted in other restaurants around town? Post your nominations below.

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Patricia Calhoun is editor-in-chief of Westword, the alt-weekly she co-founded in September 1977. She’s been inducted into the Colorado Press Association Hall of Fame, the Association of Alternative Newsmedia Hall of Fame and the Colorado Restaurant Association Hall of Fame. She’s also received dozens of local, state and national awards for writing, including first place for feature writing and first place for column writing with the Society of Professional Journalists. Patricia is a weekly commentator on Colorado Inside Out, PBS 12's public affairs roundtable, which has won two Emmys.

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