Vegetarian Dish of the Week: Sweet Potato Gnocchi at Harman's Eat + Drink | Cafe Society | Denver | Denver Westword | The Leading Independent News Source in Denver, Colorado
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Vegetarian Dish of the Week: Sweet Potato Gnocchi at Harman's Eat + Drink

When you're looking for a hearty dish that will fill you up without that, "yuck, I just ate my body weight in something I shouldn't have" feeling, look no further than the sweet potato gnocchi at Harman's Eat + Drink in Cherry Creek North. This seasonal dish from chef John...
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When you're looking for a hearty dish that will fill you up without that, "yuck, I just ate my body weight in something I shouldn't have" feeling, look no further than the sweet potato gnocchi at Harman's Eat + Drink in Cherry Creek North. This seasonal dish from chef John Little is the perfect union of creamy, savory flavors and healthy, nutrient-rich veggies.

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With an Instagram-worthy presentation awash in gold and orange tones, this gnocchi looks as good as it tastes. Harman's puts an interesting spin on this traditionally savory dish by making the gnocchi with sweet potatoes rather than standard Russets or Yukon Golds, but the other seasonal vegetables compliment them aptly. The thick broth is rich and just a little sweet; that hint of overall sweetness carries through the whole dish, but rather than cloying or overbearing, it is balanced with other flavors. Firm carrots and turnips pair well with the soft dumplings, and the crispy basil leaf garnish provides a little zest each time a shard of green finds it's way onto your spoon.

Sporadic bursts of tang and texture come from a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds. While some diners may be leery of the addition of fruit to the dish, the acidic pop -- from half a dozen seeds at most -- could be left off, but we say go for it.

The gnocchi also comes with a side of bread, an odd choice for a starchy dish until you realize that the slices, a little dry on their own, become merely a another vehicle for delivering the ample amount of sauce. Strategically alternating between spoonfuls of gnocchi and sauce-soaked bread ensured deliciousness in every bite and a bowl wiped clean by the end of the meal.

Come early for a smaller lunch portion for $10, or come for dinner for a full-sized bowl for $18 (although can still get the small size during dinner too). With the side of bread, even the lunch-sized plate is pleasantly filling. Harman's is a great destination for vegetarians: beyond the gnocchi, the menu offers a variety of meat-free delights, like an autumn vegetable cianfotta -- an Italian soup worth coming back for.


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