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100 Favorite Dishes: Dim sum from Star Kitchen

As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to cafe@westword.com.

Number 80: Dim sum from Star Kitchen

"You back! Long time to see!" shouts the woman. It's been less than a month since the last time I picked the pushcarts clean at Star Kitchen, and the tiny woman with the one-inch waist won't let me forget it. "It's been long time," she repeats, shoving metal-rimmed steamers full of siu mai dumplings under my nose. "You love these!" she enthuses, her eyes wide, her smile stretched long.

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She's right, of course. I do love the siu mai dumplings, and within a minute, they're all gone. I inhale the thin-skinned scallop dumplings, shrimp, too. It so happens that today, the chef, Jong Ng, has made lobster dumplings -- special -- so I down those, too, with the same fervor as a cat going after his nip. I could spend all day here in this boxy room swelling my belly with spongy turnip cakes pelted with Chinese sausage; jiggly rice crepes stuffed with minced pork and soaking in soy; streamed barbecue pork buns plump with sweet roasted pork; head-on shrimp crusted with salt and pepper; Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce; and, of course, more dumplings. How much do I love the dim sum from Star Kitchen? If today were my birthday, this is where I'd celebrate.

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 100 Chicken-fried steak from Lola No. 99 Alaskan reindeer sausage from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs No. 98 Mac-and-cheese fries from Jonesy's EatBar No. 97 Soft egg ravioli from Prima No. 96 Pho - any pho -- from Pho 95 No. 95 Assiette de charcuterie maison from Z Cuisine À Côté No. 94: Cheeseburger from Larkburger No. 93: BBQ Masher from Cabin Creek Smokehouse No. 92: Apple pancake from the Original Pancake House No. 91: Burrata from Osteria Marco No. 90: Eggs Benedict from Devil's Food Bakery No. 89: Chile Relleno from La Fiesta No. 88: Deviled eggs from Steuben's No. 87: Corn-in-a-cup from Jack-n- Grill No. 86: Enchiladas from Taco House No. 85: Pupusas from Pupusas Sabor Hispano No. 84: Baklava from Ali Baba Grill No. 83: Masa-fried oyster shooters from Deluxe No. 82: Tacos al pastor from Los Carboncitos No. 81: Salsa bar from Tacos Y Salsas

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