As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Number 75: Fish fry from GB Fish & Chips
It's funny how things that seem so plain and ubiquitous in one place can take on a nearly mythic significance in another. Thus it was with me and fish fry. Back home, it was tough to find a restaurant that didn't do a fry-up on Friday nights. Here, for at least my first few years in town, it was virtually impossible to find one that did. And to find one that wasn't using tilapia, battering the fish in some kind of freaky microbrew batter, or serving the resultant mess dressed worse than any cheap hooker was akin to finding gold laying the street.
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GB Fish and Chips, in its original cement-block pillbox on South Broadway, was what saved me from the depredations of fancy-pants fish fries. The beers served across the counters there didn't hurt either. And the fact that all the eating was done on picnic tables, out of plastic baskets and wreaths of fake newsprint? That was a nice touch as well.
Though nothing will ever take the place of those poverty-struck fish fries I remember from growing up in Catholic Country, GB's version is about as good as you're going to find in the area. And it stands as one of the great gathering places for Rust Belt refugees and friends from across the pond that Denver is likely ever going to see.
Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:
No. 100 Chicken-fried steak from Lola No. 99 Alaskan reindeer sausage from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs No. 98 Mac-and-cheese fries from Jonesy's EatBar No. 97 Soft egg ravioli from Prima No. 96 Pho - any pho -- from Pho 95 No. 95 Assiette de charcuterie maison from Z Cuisine À Côté No. 94: Cheeseburger from Larkburger No. 93: BBQ Masher from Cabin Creek Smokehouse No. 92: Apple pancake from the Original Pancake House No. 91: Burrata from Osteria Marco No. 90: Eggs Benedict from Devil's Food Bakery No. 89: Chile Relleno from La Fiesta No. 88: Deviled eggs from Steuben's No. 87: Corn-in-a-cup from Jack-n- Grill No. 86: Enchiladas from Taco House No. 85: Pupusas from Pupusas Sabor Hispano No. 84: Baklava from Ali Baba Grill No. 83: Masa-fried oyster shooters from Deluxe No. 82: Tacos al pastor from Los Carboncitos No. 81: Salsa bar from Tacos Y Salsas No. 80: Dim Sum from Star Kitchen No. 79: Green chile cheeseburger from Cherry Cricket No. 78: Fries from Encore No. 77: Shanghai-style dumplings from Chopsticks China Bistro No. 76: Chile relleno burrito from El Taco de Mexico