Number 44: Head cheese from Olivéa
John Broening's charcuterie -- lamb sausage, pork belly, boudin blanc, smoked duck breast and duck liver mousse -- is, indisputably, one of the most sensational boards of offal and meats in Denver, and Olivéa, the Uptown restaurant where Broening is crafting all those marvels, is one of the only places in the city where a chef is making headcheese, the tour-de-force of all offal. There's something so ridiculously pleasurable about using the scraps from the meatiest parts of the pig's head -- tongue included -- to create a whole terrine of nothing but fine swine, fat and spices, including roasted and cracked juniper berries, that results in what may very well be the richest, most insanely delicious use of a pig, like, ever. It's not for everyone, and whoever came up with the name "head cheese," clearly had the brain of a cricket, but if you're in the house, and Broening is offering it as a special, which is the only way you're going to get it, you'd be remiss if you brushed it off because it's not named Joe.
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