As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up, in no particular order, a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Number 47: Pasta carbonara from Fruition
The year was 2007; the space, the former place that held Sean Kelly's Somethin' Else, a tiny restaurant, hardly bigger than a gumdrop, that Kelly sold to Alex Seidel and Paul Attardi, the two brainchilds -- chef and maitre d' -- behind the culinary deity that's Fruition. Since Fruition's inception, Seidel has embraced the seasons (and a new farm in Larkspur) as a canvas for his menu, a near-perfect board of flawlessly sourced, beautifully choreographed and infallibly flavored dishes crafted with confidence, intelligence and principles. But while he tweaks the menu with frequency, there are a few mainstays, including the pasta carbonara, which defies everything you think you know about that dish, and would incite a violent revolt if Seidel ever yanked it from the board. He takes a generous slab of house-cured pork belly and crowns it with a jiggly egg that oozes yolk into a pool of Parmesan broth bobbing with fresh peas and handmade cavatelli. Talk about food that feeds the soul.
Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:
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