Oops. Just posted this week's Ask the Critic question, and already we have an answer (and a correction). Turns out that Bistro Vendome does, in fact, have exactly what Jim is looking for. Right there on the brunch menu, between the soup a l'oignon and the croissants, there's a breakfast charcuterie plate with an "assortment of fine meats, condiments," and at the bottom of the page, an assiette de fromages. Pair this with some of the kitchen's toasted brioche, an egg or two and some French press coffee, and Jim should be halfway to Paris already.
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But still...much as I love Bistro Vendome, there must be other meaty suggestions out there. Let's see how many places we can find this week where a Continental fella might appropriately break his fast.