Eating Adventures

Andy's Kitchen Asian Express is worth a risky left on Federal

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First, you must learn the basics - like making a left turn from Federal into a strip-mall parking lot. Because the median is more or less an additional traffic lane with few designated turn areas, you must scout ahead for cars coming your way, other cars at a full stop waiting to turn one way or another, cars entering Federal from various driveways (sometime in reverse), and jaywalkers stranded in crossing limbo. You must veer into the turn lane and stop suddenly, then accelerate quickly across two lanes of traffic. Finally, you must brake hard to avoid blowing out your suspension on what will surely be an uneven (to say the least) transition from the street to the parking lot, but not so suddenly that you leave the rear of your car jutting out into oncoming traffic. But that's the easy part.

Making a left back onto Federal --after cashing your check, filling your MMJ prescription, or purchasing your sack of tacos --is a maneuver that will mark you as either a suburban amateur or a grizzled veteran. The skill here is in reaching maximum possible velocity straight out of the parking lot, perpendicular to traffic, then making a hard left and coming to a dead stop in the center lane while looking over your right shoulder for a gap in traffic. The reason you do this is because you will never, ever make it across all lanes of traffic in one go, so you might as well scare some unwary driver into thinking your plan is to T-bone their vehicle at full speed. Most experienced pilots of the Fed, however, will not even give you a second look.

Andy's Kitchen may or may not be worth the stress and potential vehicular damage, depending on how hungry you are and whether you live close enough to avail yourself of its free delivery. I prefer the full experience of eating at a restaurant, so my immediate impression is always an important one. And what struck me about Andy's was first, that it was immaculately clean, and second, that the owners had done a convincing job of turning an unsuccessful Dairy Queen across from a high school into a pleasant, if unassuming, Chinese fast-casual joint.
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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation