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Ask the Critic: Shelter from the storm

I may be a little premature with this, but because it's all rainy and (at least in my neighborhood) snowy this morning, I couldn't help but start thinking about fall and winter menus.  This, of course, led immediately to my daydreaming about eating fall and winter menus, and the first few restaurants I'll hit once the cold weather really starts coming in.

I'm thinking potatoes and brined meats, pumpkin seeds, heavy starches and fresh apples.  Last night, just as the weather started changing, I found myself eating one of the season's first honeycrisp apples and a (not yet perfectly ripe) taleggio, but dreaming about warm bowls of clams and potatoes in white wine broth, of Irish champ and soda bread and plates of pasta veiled in those heavy sauces that I can't tolerate when the temperature climbs into the nineties.

So my question to you on this beautifully gray and damp day is a simple one: What are you looking forward to now that the first snap of cold has begun to alter your appetite?  What will you begin to crave as the nights grow longer and colder and the frost starts forming in the morning?

You know the drill.  Answers below, and thanks in advance.

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