Barolo Grill and a year of changes

A year ago, after a series of lackluster meals at Barolo Grill, I begrudgingly paid a $200 tab and doubted that I'd ever return, concluding that Blair Taylor's iconic restaurant was past its prime. "Barolo Grill," I wrote, "needs to try a little harder to be Barolo Grill."...

By Laura Shunk

December 20, 2011

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A year ago, after a series of lackluster meals at Barolo Grill, I begrudgingly paid a $200 tab and doubted that I'd ever return, concluding that Blair Taylor's iconic restaurant was past its prime. "Barolo Grill," I wrote, "needs to try a little harder to be Barolo Grill."

Not long after I'd reviewed the restaurant, though, things began to change. Most notably, longtime executive chef Brian Laird left the kitchen, and Darrel Truett, a seven-year member of the staff, was put in charge. At the same time Truett was tweaking the menu, Taylor was updating the interior of Barolo.

So as Barolo prepares to start its third decade, I decided to give the legendary restaurant another chance. A few weeks ago, I returned to Barolo to see whether the chef change had injected new life into the place. And after eating my way through the revived board over a couple of meals, I had my answer.

How was Barolo? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

Contact: Laura Shunk

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