The Danish call it smørrebrød; the French call it tartine. Here in the Wild West, we just prefer "open-faced sandwich." Whatever you call a mound of complementary ingredients on a thick slab of bread, we call it delicious at Call, the right-hand side of Beckon|Call (2845 Larimer Street). The new fast-casual eatery with the heart of a bistro has a number of tartines on the menu to satisfy different tastes at different times of day.
Start with the grapefruit and feta tartine for a bracing morning pick-me-up that combines torn mint and tarragon with pink and orange citrus wedges (carefully cut into supremes so the pith and skin don't get in the way), soft feta (not the harsh, overly salted grocery-store stuff, either) and blackberry-anise jam. Call bakes its own bread, and even throws a healthy percentage of house-milled heritage wheat into each batch, so expect a dense, seedy slice of whole-grain goodness. While the finished product (available as a grab-and-go) looks simple, the flavors and textures combine into a wondrous eye-opener perfect with an espresso on the side.
Lunchtime calls for heartier fare, so Call has constructed something the Danes would surely love. Fresh mackerel are brought in and broken down, becoming glistening wedges that decorate toasted rustic bread, along with generous dollops of roasted-garlic aioli, a smear of curried and caramelized onions and a shower of fresh herbs. The mackerel gets its silky texture from bathing in seasoned olive oil (almost like a confit) after its skin is charred under the broiler.
There are other tartines, too, including one for beet lovers, so think beyond passé avocado toast. Call certainly isn't reining in its imagination with sliced bread and things that can be piled upon it.
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