For a guy like me -- terminally overfed, always on the hunt, cruising Denver's restaurant scene like a shark who'll die if he stops moving -- Duo is so good I can forget about it. It's a restaurant I never have to worry about--an absolutely fantastic little neighborhood place competing well in a neighborhood full of serious comers, doing incredibly smart American cuisine with a depth of technique like a thousand-foot well.
I could go to Duo, eat a meal there, love it, rave about it to friends, then promptly not write about it. Because I didn't have to. Duo would always be there. It would always be as good. Pastry chef Yasmin Lozada-Hissom was brilliant. Broening was like a rock -- stable, indomitable, change measured in eons.
As I write in this week's review of Olivea, years gone from my first meal at Duo, I can still recall a side of hash browns that Broening made for me. They were the best hash browns I'd ever had. And as much as I would've liked to remind people about that every month or so for five years, that wouldn't have been appropriate. Or necessary. Duo did just fine without me ever saying a word about it. So did Broening and Lozada-Hissom and Stephanie Bonin and Keith Arnold, who owned the place.
And even now that Olivea has gotten open and found its footing -- even now that Broening has his attentions split across two different kitchens and two different crews -- I remain confident that Duo will do just fine. I'll probably get back there soon just just to poke around a little and make sure everything is up to snuff.
But honestly, I'm not worried. I fully expect that the next time I eat there, it will be just as good as it has always been.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.