Bite Me

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I don't know what owner Derrol Moorhead and crew are doing back there in the kitchen, but keep it up, fellas. I went there for a laugh and ended up with a good meal. Serves me right...

Now that we've fried up ice cream, Twinkies and chicken wings, what's next? Candy bars. Scotland -- the land that brought us haggis and single-malts -- is now on to the Next Big Thing in extreme foods: deep-fried Mars bars. Although no one in Denver has yet latched on to this gustatory gold mine, think about it: Candy bars are good. Batter is good. A battered candy bar dunked in 400-degree fryer grease, then dusted with powdered sugar is...?

Maybe I'll quit this gig and get into dentistry. I see a big future in it.

Leftovers: Ultra-hip Mateo (1837 Pearl Street in Boulder) has a new man behind the grills. Hugo Mathison, fresh from his stint at London's River Cafe, has moved into the spot vacated in June by Seamus Feeley -- who'd gone to Mateo from Citrus, the champagne bar and restaurant in Union Station. According to Mateo owner Mathew Jansen, Mathison "was a friend of mine and a friend of Seamus, and he shared our vision, so the transition has gone very smoothly." Mateo's menu remains seasonal, with specials, additions and subtractions daily depending on what's available locally.

Meanwhile, Feeley has moved down the block and will be opening the Corner Gourmet, which will specialize in prepared foods for takeout -- and, with any luck, give him more time to spend with his new kid.

Denver restaurants have been getting a lot of national press, and this month it's Dazzle (930 Lincoln Street) in the spotlight, with its recipe for macaroni and cheese featured in the "You Asked For It" section of the current Gourmet magazine.

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Jason Sheehan
Contact: Jason Sheehan