Cafe Society

Chef and Tell with Kyle Fitzgerald of the Old Blinking Light

"I haven't had lunch yet," sighs Kyle Fitzgerald, plopping himself down on a stool. Soon a vase of flat tubers fried in duck fat arrives at the bar with three dipping sauces. "The duck-fat fries have always been popular," he says, but "we're always trying to make them better." He picks up a fry and hands it over. "What do you think?" he asks, leaning forward. I stick the fry in my mouth and nod my head in approval, which seems to make Fitzgerald happy.

"I'm happier than I've been in months," admits the executive chef of the Old Blinking Light, the Highlands Ranch outpost of the Taos restaurant owned by Joseph Wrede, a Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef winner. He pauses and downs a few more fries before continuing. "There was a point, though, not too many months ago, when I thought we were going to close," confesses Fitzgerald, who credits his kitchen crew for fighting "to save all of our asses, to fight for our jobs and to prove how much they wanted this restaurant to succeed."

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Lori Midson
Contact: Lori Midson