Chefs getting their jollies and unchained pasta e fagioli soup at Tony's Market Bistro

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Tony's Broadway Market Bistro will host an Italian family dinner on Thursday, January 27 -- and owner/founder Tony Rosacci will be there, making this definitely a family affair.

"Tony invented this," says Stuart Stevenson, general manager of the market and bistro. "It's a good night with lots of people to enjoy Tony's hospitality, and there's a mandolin player who plays the music from The Godfather."

The six-course meal will begin with appetizers and bread for each table, and then a duck breast salad on field greens with pistachio, herb toast points and orange vinaigrette.

Are toast points making a comeback? "I've never thought of it," Stevenson replies, after thinking about it for a few seconds. The salad course will be followed by pasta e fagioli soup -- which Stevenson promises will be better than that at Olive Garden. "Are you joking me?" he sputters. "Of course it is!"

The entrees are slated to be fettuccine with puttanesca sauce (translation: whore's sauce, a fantastic, chunky red sauce, nice and salty, with tomato, garlic, anchovies, olives and capers) and braised beef in Barolo wine with roasted Italian vegetables and mushroom rice pilaf.

Serving a sauce with a disreputable name on family night is just an example of "these chefs loving to get their jollies when they can," Stevenson says.

The jolly-seeking chefs are making the pasta by hand, and chef Ben Davis selected several wines to pair with the meal, including 2009 Orrin Swift "Abstract" (dry red with overripe berries and oak) and 2008 Mendoza Valley "Arido" Malbec (young, dry red with violet and spice). Dessert will be small cannoli with seasonal berries and pineapple sorbet.

The dinner starts at 6 p.m. next Thursday, and seating is limited; tickets are $35 (the jollies, as well as live music, come free). To make a reservation, call 720-880-4501.

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