Just 24 hours after I returned from Asia, I was craving the cuisine I'd left behind -- and I was particularly hungry for the food stalls of the markets. So I headed straight for ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro
, where Lon Symensma channeled Cholon, the Chinatown market in Saigon, when he and his partner, Jim Deters, designed their Denver restaurant.
Each dish on Symensma's menu has a story and a Southeast Asian inspiration. As I ate my way through the menu for this week's review, I reflected on what regional street eats he'd started with -- and what he'd changed to make the dishes appropriate for a fine-dining table.
Symensma's biggest challenge was preserving the character of his source without making the exact same recipes, which might work in a cheaper Vietnamese joint on South Federal Boulevard but not at an elegant LoDo restaurant.
Was he successful? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here, along with a slide show.