Not long ago it almost seemed like chefs should wear lab coats, as science held sway in the kitchen. One particularly popular technique was sous vide, a process of cooking vacuum-sealed foods in controlled-temperature water baths. Clint Wangsnes became a fan, and when he leftZengo
to openChop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
, the fast-casual he launched on East Colfax Avenue this summer, he decided to build his recipes around it.
At Chop Shop, Wangsnes uses the method for everything from short ribs to French fries to onion soup, for which the onions are simmered 72 hours.
And that's not a surprise to Andy Floyd, academic director of Colorado Culinary Academy. "There's a whole movement with everyone cooking in wood-burning ovens and getting really great Maillard reactions," says Floyd, adding that chefs are looking for "primordial flavors" from the "dehydration and smoke from the wood itself."
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While they may not be primordial, you find plenty of flavors at Chop Shop. Will you like them? Find out when when my review is posted here tomorrow.