Country Time BBQ has a barbecue style of its own

There's nothing fancy about Country Time BBQ, a true barbecue shack tucked into a business park on West Hampden that uses a couple of parking-lot pits to feed its take-out and catering operation. But then, I'm never exactly looking for white tablecloths when I'm after sauced-up smoked meat.

This building is the outgrowth of Lawrence Barkers's barbecue hobby, an obsession that five years ago pushed him to quit his job and open up a restaurant with then-wife (and current business partner) Jennifer.

Like most Colorado barbecue joints, Country Time doesn't adhere to any particular region for its 'cue recipes -- but while the Barkerses borrow from many different traditions, they've also established a style that's distinctly their own.

For this week's review, I stopped by Country Time to eat my way through its menu of ribs, brisket and pulled pork.

How was it? Get a 'cue tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.
Contact: Laura Shunk