Country Time BBQ has a barbecue style of its own

There's nothing fancy about Country Time BBQ, a true barbecue shack tucked into a business park on West Hampden that uses a couple of parking-lot pits to feed its take-out and catering operation. But then, I'm never exactly looking for white tablecloths when I'm after sauced-up smoked meat.

This building is the outgrowth of Lawrence Barkers's barbecue hobby, an obsession that five years ago pushed him to quit his job and open up a restaurant with then-wife (and current business partner) Jennifer.

Like most Colorado barbecue joints, Country Time doesn't adhere to any particular region for its 'cue recipes -- but while the Barkerses borrow from many different traditions, they've also established a style that's distinctly their own.

For this week's review, I stopped by Country Time to eat my way through its menu of ribs, brisket and pulled pork.

How was it? Get a 'cue tomorrow, when the review is posted here.

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