Cream and butter can make food taste better -- but True Food Kitchen doesn't use that trick

When the Center for Science in the Public Interest handed out its Xtreme Eating Awards last month for the least-nutritious dishes in the nation, people yawned. Except PR people, that is: They went into overdrive.

The list was as shocking as ever, but the truth simply doesn't hurt as much when you've heard it before. And we've been hearing for years that dishes like bistro shrimp pasta at the Cheesecake Factory contain more calories than you should eat in a day and enough saturated fat to last the work week. See also: - First look: True Food Kitchen opens in Cherry Creek - Review: Uncle, Tommy Lee's Highland noodle shop, will bowl you over - Hot damn! Central Bistro & Bar redefines what a neighborhood restaurant can be

Maybe we'd pay more attention if we knew that restaurants like Johnny Rockets, Chili's and the Cheesecake Factory aren't the only ones loading up on bad stuff in the name of good taste. All chefs have tricks up their sleeves, whether it's twice-frying potatoes or using butter to top off a steak.

"What I'd been taught is a little butter, a little cream make it delicious," acknowledges Alejandro German, former executive chef at Osteria Marco and NoRTH.

Now, however, he's running the show at True Food Kitchen in Cherry Creek, where he says he's "learned how to make it good without adding those components."

Find out just how good True Food's healthy fare is when my review is posted here tomorrow.

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Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz