Deconstructed duck cubano: Have it your way at the Populist

The idea that "one size fits all" is just plain wrong. From something as simple as clothing (boxy T-shirts) to something as complex as currency (the Euro), there's no way to please everyone with a middle-of-the-road solution.

Coffee shops realized this long ago, allowing us to add our own sugar and cream (or soy and Splenda) to make it as light and sweet as we want. And for good reason: We're the ones drinking the coffee, not the barista. See also: - First look: The Populist - Denver's ten best restaurants of 2012 - Jonathan Power and Noah Price, owners of Crema, will open The Populist

The Populist was opened last November by Jonathan Power and Noah Price, who also own Crema Coffee House, just a few blocks down Larimer Street. The food at Crema won them so many fans that they decided to open a restaurant, and it made our list of the ten best new restaurants to open in 2012 in Denver.

The Populist's deconstructed duck cubano is one reason why: I can eat this delicious dish any way I want to. I can rip off a piece of grilled ciabatta and fashion a few sloppy bites of everything together, then savor that shredded duck confit with a spot of Dijon. I can nibble the Canadian bacon-like duck breast by itself, then try it nestled against Gruyere and a briny cornichon.

A cubano has more moving parts than a cup of java; it's nice to have the freedom to build it how you want it. Find out if the rest of the menu is as appealing when my review of the Populist is posted here tomorrow.

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