Don't Skip the Vegetarian Dishes at Sugarmill, Even If You Order Dessert First

With a name like Sugarmill, finding decadent confections within feet of the entrance is no surprise; but finding a dinner menu with veggie options as tempting as the macarons had me smitten. Sipping prosecco while noshing on a mozzarella and tomato plate was the perfect way to unwind, followed by lasagna done up veggie style. And of course, no meal is complete at Sugarmill without a dessert.

The restaurant is cozy and close — perfect for small groups or an intimate date — and has a great patio that opens up the interior space. Sitting at the chef's counter gives a better look at the kitchen-side action, but there's also a high-top community table that gives a great vantage point to look out the open garage door and people-watch as the RiNo neighborhood buzzes. 

A simple dish like Sugarmill's fresh mozzarella and tomato drizzled with balsamic dressing is the best way to begin a night of indulging; it’s a great dish to share as an appetizer and comes out quickly. The light dish is custom-made for a warm summer night with a glass of cold bubbly.

Sugarmill's lasagna is typically served with sausage, but it was simple for the kitchen to swap out the meat for veggies. The waiter indicated that this is a frequent request and was more than happy to accommodate. The presentation was a warm and colorful masterpiece delicately put together with layers of veggies, ricotta, pesto and mozzarella. It's a rich and creamy dish — with warm ricotta coating every bite — that feels more sinful than it actually is. Yes, the cheese is plentiful, but there are so many vegetables: Two large slices of grilled zucchini top the lasagna and ample servings of mushrooms, carrots and tomatoes lay beneath. When you’re eating a meal as decadent as lasagna, it feels good to know you’re also getting your fill of veggies while you’re at it.

And getting a fix of healthy ingredients first is probably a good thing at Sugarmill, because ordering dessert here is, without question, the best way to round out a meal. I find it behooves anyone to ask the waitstaff for input when it comes to desserts. They've probably tasted everything on the dessert menu (because wouldn't you if you worked here?) and can give you a better description and some helpful info like how rich or sweet something is. I took our waiter’s advice — and the chocolate pistachio cream cake did not disappoint. Described as “chef Noah’s inspiration to become a pastry chef,” this creation certainly inspires subsequent bites. Layers of creamy pistachio and chocolate cream are separated by a light chocolate cake and placed atop a cherry-amaretto sauce. Whipped cream and crushed pistachios make for a dramatic filling to the macaron halves adorning the top of the sweet confection.

Whether you’re a seasoned Sugarmill addict, or have yet to taste the sweet treats churned out daily, be sure to give the dinner menu a chance and remember to bring your veggie friends to accompany you.

KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Chelsea Keeney
Contact: Chelsea Keeney