Early Bird Restaurant: A taste of this week's review

After watching Top Chef this season, I have a new theory on why chefs don't like brunch. Maybe it's not, as many restaurateurs suggest, because the meal is a disruption to the kitchen's regular routine. Instead, could it be that they're secretly afraid of cranking out omelets as brown and dry as the ones served to Wolfgang Puck by cheftestants vying for spots on the show?

Cooking a perfect omelet is admittedly no easy task for even the most experienced chef -- as in life, many seemingly simple tasks are anything but -- and the pressure must have been intense, but the way the humbled gang applauded after Puck later demonstrated proper technique made his three-egg endeavor appear out of reach to all but the most beatified of chefs.

See also: - The eggs at Early Bird are all they're cracked up to be - Denver's Best 24/7 Restaurant - 2012 - Breakfast King - Denver's Best Breakfast Under $2 - 2012 - Araujo's Restaurant

But it isn't -- as the omelets flying out of the kitchen at Early Bird Restaurant, a quaint breakfast-and-lunch spot that opened last summer, can attest. Chef-owner Daniel Cofrades, who runs the place with his wife, Kristen, did cook for Pope John Paul II while at Michel Rostang in Paris, but I'm pretty sure that didn't confer any special status on him. Nor does Kristen's role as an instructor at Johnson & Wales, where much of Early Bird's staff hails from. The Cofradeses, both longtime chefs who share a commitment to organic, locally sourced ingredients, just have a way with eggs. Hungry to know more? Read the full review of Early Bird here.


KEEP WESTWORD FREE... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Gretchen Kurtz has worked as a writer for 25 years; during that time she's stomped grapes in Napa, eaten b'stilla in Fez, and baked with Buddy Valastro, aka the Cake Boss. Her work has appeared in publications including Boulevard (Paris), Diversion, the New York Times and Westword. Our restaurant critic since 2012, she loves helping you decide where to eat and drink tonight.
Contact: Gretchen Kurtz

Latest Stories