Four years ago, when I interviewed Peter Ryan, then the executive chef/instructor at Cook Street School of Culinary Arts, I asked him what he wished would disappear from Denver's culinary landscape. "Acceptance of a lousy performance by a restaurant," he told me. "Everything counts in the hospitality industry, but a lot of diners just accept mediocrity. They'll go out to dinner, shrug and say it was just okay, but then they'll go back again. That needs to change."
Ryan, who also quarterbacked the kitchens at Z Cuisine and the Village Cork, now has the opportunity to practice what he preaches. On Saturday, he opened his own restaurant: the Plimoth, an off-the-beaten-path, forty-seater in North City Park, on a stretch of asphalt that's completely barren of food temples.