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Girls and grills at CY Steak

Cliff Young, whose eponymously named restaurant transformed the Denver dining scene, is back in business at the Diamond Cabaret, where his

CY Steak

opened this week at 1222 Glenarm Place. It was a soft opening -- in a room full of hard bodies.

While strip clubs across the country are dumping down their offerings -- "catering to a thriftier clientele," according to a recent Wall Street Journal piece -- VCG Holding Corp., the Denver-based company that owns clubs across the country, including the Diamond, is taking a different tack. "There are not changes contemplated in our company," VCG's Troy Lowrie said when I asked about the Journal piece. "That article lumped our name with a competitor's comments." And true, it's impossible to imagine Lowrie doing what that competitor, Rick's Cabaret International, has done with one of its Dallas clubs: turned it into an "all-nude, bring-own-beer venue."

Instead, Cliff Young is bringing sophisticated French fare to the restaurant at the Diamond, where he's redesigned both the dining room and the menu. And entertainment opportunities, since girls will be coming in after 8:30 p.m. -- in the very best French tradition, he promises.

(For a look at the steakhouse as it was more than a decade ago, read Kyle Wagner's review here.)

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