4

Good times at Go Fish

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The space is simple, almost iconic Japantown nouvelle, with wood and steel and stone all polished to a high and gleaming gloss, mismatched walls in shades of lime and mustard, one of those trickling fountain things and abstract sculptures of fish on the walls done in shiny, candy-colored laminate and burnished metal. The tables and chairs don't match. The warm sake comes from a machine -- like one of those office water coolers, only instead of dispensing cold H20, it's loaded with hot rice wine, booze from a company that's been producing since the 1700s. And the wine list seems to be populated by bottles chosen mostly for their names and brightly colored labels.

Go Fish is the Japanese-American version of the simple, easy and uncomplicated Thai-Chinese cuisine at Spicy Basic, which is just up the street. 

The menu is a bit more adventurous (sushi and lamb chops and a long spread of apps, hot and cold), but the vibe is the same. Go Fish is a neighborhood place, offering coddling junk food for those who consider sushi and yakitori, gyoza and tempura to exist on the same level as gravy fries, potato chips, mashed potatoes and cheeseburgers -- the kind of go-to grub you yearn for when all you want is simple, hot and brainless food.

It's not surprising that, after reviewing Go Fish, I went back to Spicy Basil for Second Helping -- and for shumai and chicken Penang curry, my usual at a place where I am a most irregular regular.

But soon a couple of noodle bars could be competing for my affection. In Bite Me, I have updates on both Frank Bonanno's new noodle bar, Bones, and Dave Query's Happy Noodle House, coming soon in Boulder. -- Jason Sheehan

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