Eating Adventures

Gorditas Doña Lidia is the Mrs. Garrett of Federal Boulevard

In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard - south to north - within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-up window and bar stool where food is served. Here's the report on this week's stop...

The owners of Tacos y Salsas recently revamped the location at 1201 South Federal, giving it a new name, some fresh paint and a pared-down menu emphasizing gorditas and caldos -- hearty Mexican soups. The updated taqueria, now called Gorditas Doña Lidia, is more of a spinoff than a clone. Tacos y Salsas is like one of those '80s sitcoms with the cute kids and an ensemble cast that proved to be too big or popular for a single half-hour a week, so one or more of the cast soon moved on to star in their own show -- but the writing, the gags and the timing of the laugh track remained familiar and safe. Doña Lidia has her own show now, but the creators haven't strayed too far from the formula.

See also: - At Pho 95, warmth and familiarity slow down the rush on a cold night - The molcajete rocks at Playa Azul - Las Islitas gives a taste of Nayarit seafood specialties

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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.
Contact: Mark Antonation