I love the National Western Stock Show and everything about it; I even love the smell from the stockyards that drifts into downtown Denver this time of year. The town is full of cows and cowboys, and the town's steakhouses are full of cowboys looking for great grilled cow. This year, though, CY Steak — Cliff Young's French restaurant attached to the Diamond Cabaret — is corralling them with a different kind of strip steak. While prior to 9 p.m. the women walking the catwalk that runs the length of the restaurant are more or less clothed, after 9 p.m., the gloves — and the dresses — come off. We stopped by CY Steak after a visit to the Stock Show, and it may have been my favorite trip ever to a steakhouse. Not because of the drink I ordered — although the Green Fairy ($12), made with Kubler Absinthe, simple syrup, lemon and lime juice, was fine — but because of the hilarity that ensued while we were drinking in the atmosphere. A party of three couples had come in for dinner and to celebrate one of the women's birthdays; the men were positioned to look at the peelers and would send their women over to tip the more attractive strippers and ask them to take off their tops. (It doesn't sound like my ideal birthday party, but to each his or her own.) As one woman went up to a girl, she suddenly stopped and exclaimed, "Oh, my gosh, it's Becky! Honey, you remember Becky, don't you? I coached her in cheerleading." Yee-haw!