Four years ago when I was the restaurant critic for a now-defunct publication, I reviewed Shanahan's Steakhouse. At the time, the executive chef told me he was trying to create a menu that was "a lot more modern," but I as noted in my review, the beef was corn-fed and sourced out-of-state, making it seem more traditional than contemporary.
Fast forward to 2014. When restaurateur Troy Guard opened Guard and Grace Guard and Grace in March, he used similar terminology, referring to his sprawling, splashy venture downtown as a "modern steakhouse." See also: First look at Guard and Grace
The restaurant certainly has some modern twists: The setting is stunning, with a bright lounge comfortable bar and elegant dining area.
The menu gives guests the choice of prime, Angus or grass-fed beef, all raised in Colorado and dry-aged for 28 days, and served in portions ranging from 4 to 22 ounces, which is helpful if you settle in for cocktails and appetizers and later decide you're in the mood for steak. But those steaks also have very traditional steakhouse prices.
Does Guard and Grace live up to its "modern steakhouse" billing -- and big-ticket expectations? Find out when my review is posted here tomorrow.
Keep Westword Free... Since we started Westword, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Denver, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Denver with no paywalls.