Smother love: It's easy being green in Denver in September and October, when the smell of roasting chiles overrides the odor of exhaust along Federal Boulevard, and the green chile at your favorite Mexican joint carries the heat of the new harvest.

For the next several weeks, Cafe Society will feature some of our favorite green chiles. We started with Phil's Place, and continued through El Tejado, La Fiesta, Bonnie Brae Tavern, Benny's, Lola, Mezcal, Zingers, Senor Burrito's, Mexico City Lounge, La Loma, El Taco de Mexico, Los Carboncitos and La Fogata.

Laced with tomatoes and ropes of New Mexican green chiles, but devoid of pork, this medium-thick verde, simmered with beef stock, is full of flavor, with just enough heat to clear your sinuses.

Can you guess where I'm eating green chile?

• Cafe Society