Zaidy's "This cozy living room of a deli is known for its Latke Reuben: A mess of corned beef covered in melted Swiss and sauerkraut sandwiched between two big, thin, crisp potato latkes." 121 Adams St. (at E. First Ave.), Denver; 303-333-5336 or zaidysdeli.com
Sax also smears love on the schmaltz at Jimmy and Drew's 28th Street Deli in Boulder (2855 28th Street), which, incidentally, was also named one of the best sandwich shops in America by Esquire magazine last year.
The book is a good read for anyone passionate about pastrami sandwiches, crazy about knishes or, most important, worried about their favorite brisket breeder going belly up because of "young Jewish families not embracing food the way their ancestors did" and the "atrocious profit margins on sandwiches," both of which are examples that Sax cites as downers contributing to the death of the deli.
Don't let our delis go down, people.