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I brake for the Denver Biscuit Company

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Since when does a 30 percent chance mean it's actually going to rain? I mean, come on -- this is Denver we're talking about. I know we're in a drought, but you'd think the clouds could have had the decency to hold their drops until the afternoon: Monday mornings are hard enough without the additional challenge of being all drippy and gray.

So there I was yesterday, windshield wipers tapping, red lights reflecting off the wet pavement on East Colfax, when I spotted the Denver Biscuit Co. On a whim, I pulled in and ordered a biscuit to go. Three minutes later I was back in the car, the buttery smell of my gigantic biscuit filling the air. See also: -Atomic Cowboy's pair of restaurants, Fat Sully's and Denver Biscuit Company, might make you stay forever - Tables: The family operation is both comfortable and surprising - Good execution turns into good pizza at Lucky Pie

Early on, Drew and Ashleigh Shader, the founders of Atomic Cowboy, decided this part of Colfax could use a couple of comfortable eateries as well as a bar, so they introduced Fat Sully's, which serves pizza late at night, and the Denver Biscuit Company, which is open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and offers fresh-baked buttermilk biscuits every day.

I like to make my own biscuits -- that way the whole house smells good, not just the car. But what a biscuit this was: hot to the touch, with a golden top and a mound of flaky middle just begging for butter and jam. I hate biscuits that are pale and don't have crunchy edges, because they get gummy when you chew them. I liked the way this biscuit separated into layers and how it was slightly misshapen, making it feel homemade. Plus it was huge, so it wasn't gone in two bites!

I wish I had one now.

I try hard not to link food with emotions, but let's be honest: Some foods really do bring joy. In my review this week, I'll look at another place in town that serves biscuits and other Southern-style comfort food. Is Sassafras American Eatery worth a detour the next time the forecast calls for rain? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.


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