Jeff Osaka's twelve lures patrons to the Ballpark neighborhood

On a block just beyond the revitalized stretches of downtown, twelve, at 2233 Larimer Street, is tucked amidst dilapidated storefronts...

By Laura Shunk

November 16, 2010

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On a block just beyond the revitalized stretches of downtown, twelve, at 2233 Larimer Street, is tucked amidst dilapidated storefronts. Two years ago, when chef Jeff Osaka gave up his chefs whites in Los Angeles to pursue restaurant ownership in Denver, he picked up this Ballpark neighborhood property on Craigslist. He wanted to give Denver a dining experience it had never seen before, executing a monthly menu that focused on hyper-seasonal offerings, showing that using produce at its peak means thinking beyond spring, summer, winter and fall. By the first time I walked through the door last spring, I was floating on the recommendations of dozens of friends in the industry. But the impression of the place I formed during that meal was grim enough to keep me away for months. A few weeks ago, I finally decided to give twelve a second chance, and ate my way though several of chef Osaka's October and November offerings. Sitting alone at the bar one night, I formed an entirely new opinion of the restaurant. Was this meal enough to turn around my first impression? Find out tomorrow when the review is posted here, along with a slideshow.

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Laura Shunk was Westword's restaurant critic from 2010 to 2012; she's also been food editor at the Village Voice and a dining columnist in Beijing. Her toughest assignment had her drinking ten martinis and eating ten Caesar salads over the course of 48 hours. She still drinks martinis, but remains lukewarm on Caesar salads.

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