Let them eat cake...from City Bakery

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Yes, yesterday's Guess Where I'm Eating? cakes were from City Bakery, Michael Bortz's place up at 5454 Washington Street, an industrial-park setting that gives no hint of the wonderful things being created inside. Except for the smell, of course.

Although Bortz breads and desserts are featured at many restaurants around town -- including Elway's, Squeaky Bean and Fogo de Chao -- you can also buy directly from City Bakery. "We never sleep," Bortz advises.

"It's a real factory outlet," adds Bortz, who's working overtime now that Thanksgiving is approaching. "It's fun during the holidays; you get a load of people." And he's making a load of holiday offerings: maple walnut coffeecake and pecan pumpkin coffeecake, each $25; a pecan hazelnut tart for $24; holiday stollen; a dozen kinds of breads and bars; even Marjolaine (a bargain at $35, considering the time it takes to make -- and the pounds of butter involved).

Although Bortz hopes to some day offer mail order, he hasn't had the time to set up a web site. So if you want to sample City Bakery's wares, your best bet is to call 303-292-3989 -- to make sure that Bortz isn't off making deliveries to one of his many restaurant clients -- and then head to north Denver.

Bortz promises to make sure your trek is worthwhile: "They'll get a free loaf if they make the trip."

Just follow your nose.

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